To Morocco

Fez Medina

Arrival in Tangier

Tarifa

A fast-ferry and Algeciras port

Gibraltar from Algeciras

15.Feb.2010

Yesterday we got up early in order to be packed and ready to eat breakfast by 7.00. We all got ourselves headed in the direction of the ferry terminal in time to buy tickets fro a 9.00 fast-ferry bound for Tangier.

The trip across the strait was gorgeous. We were off the ferry and into Tangier by about 11.00. We picked up a van - a large Hyundai and set off for Fez, via Tetouan and Chefchaouan. Within 10 min it was apparent that we were on the wrong road. we continued despite this and eventually found our bearings. We continued on our way and by 19.00 were in Fez. A long day.

The drive was as beautiful as the ferry trip had been. The hills were a brilliant green due to a good rainy season; in fact, many areas had recently been flooded. Some sections of road were covered with mud as well.

By the time we arrived in Fez, it was shortly after dark. Si Muhammad, the Concierge for the Dar Ben Safi met us in the Bat-ha Square which, to the delight of the children, was sporting a multi-coloured fountain. A porter loaded our bags and we walked the ~500m into the medina to the Dar where we would be staying.

The dar was fantastic - a big open courtyard surrounded by rooms of various sizes on three levels and topped by a terrace on the roof.

We went out for dinner to another Dar set up as a restaurant - delicious, but expensive.

Today, we wandered somewhat aimlessly around the medina of Fez, seeing various caravanserais (funduks), mosques, madrasas, palaces and riads. Mostly, however we saw shops. Lots of shops. They sold everything you could possibly need, much of it carried into the medina by donkey as there are no cars allowed (nor would they fit).

other pics

Gibraltar from Algeciras

other places to stay or eat

orange tree in Tarifa

Anika & old church in Tarifa

the port of Algeciras

from our hotel room window

Toledo from our hotel room patio

With some regret we left Toledo for Algeciras on the southern coast, the port from which we would take a ferry to Morocco. We had heard Algeciras described as a charmless place and indeed, upon arrival on a rainy evening, this certainly is true.

We arrived friday evening thinking we could arrange to park the car for two weeks, wash some clothes at a laundromat on saturday morning and maybe drive to Tarifa for a look around. Probably due to errors in translation, we learn that there are no laundromats in Algeciras, only a dry-cleaner who tells us she is so busy that she couldn't do our clothes today even if we were willing to spend the $120 or so that it would cost. We learn that there is a laundromat in Tarifa, only 20 km away. Excellent, we were planning on a short visit anyways!

The drive over is beautiful, a lush but craggy landscape studded with windmills and bulls (toros!) We can even see Africa (Morocco) as we head down into Tarifa and the rain abates. We drive briefly around the rather beautiful little town looking for a laundromat until we decide to ask someone. Apparently there are two, both probably closed on a saturday. We find one in short order - closed. The other is in the medina, so no cars. We park and wander into the medina, a small maze of narrow streets often less than 150 cm wide. There are dozens of small bars, fish shops, jewellers, more bars, some pastry shops, clothing and shoe boutiques - but no laundry facilities of any kind. When we ask people, we are told about the one out on the avenue, or more often, a blank stare and a "No."

Peoples' clothes here seem quite clean, I wonder how this happens and how we can take part.

Pausing, we take advantage of the overload of bars and take some small tapas with beer and wine. After another short wander around and a further drive around, neither with any luck, we head back to our hotel room to do some hand-washing. One weeks worth of travel for four, two of which are small children (small clothes, big messes). We buy some string and some laundry soap. Funny, at a large market there are dozens of bars of different kinds of laundry soap, but only two boxes of machine detergent!

My parents will arrive by plane this evening in Gibraltar where I will go to pick them up. Tomorrow - to Morocco...

More pictures of Toledo

reflections

monastery

Tagus river

getting tired

from the towers of the church of the Jesuits

Hòla, España!

Toledo

the roof of the cathedral in Zaragoza

the streets of Zaragoza

waiting for sausage

running in Zaragoza

We drove the windy coastal road along the Mediterranean into Spain avoiding the snow laden Pyrenees. It was an absolutely gorgeous drive. Windier and narrower than any amusement ride I've ever been on. Thank you Gravol! The freeway can be a haven for some of us. We took the first exit from the roller coaster and headed directly west for Zaragoza. We spent mere hours here, picking up food, visiting cathedrals and wandering around somewhat aimlessly in the very brisk wind.

Yesterday we drove into Toledo! This is a fantastic city. It too has brisk winds, but they are almost unnoticeable when lost in the maze of streets that form the old city. Anika says she is getting good at jumping out of the way of the cars that zoom along the narrow, ever-winding alleys.

After visiting the Netherlands, Germany, France and now Spain in the last 10 days, the children are developing a schizophrenic language difficulty. When the time comes, for example to thank someone, they run variously through several choices before hitting on the right one. Danke schön! Merci! Gracias! Dank u wel! This isn't helped by the fact that we know less Spanish than French or German.

Other pictures

the Pyrenees behind the salt marsh from the Mediterranean

preparing to fill the sea with rocks

seafood sales in Beziers

the road along the Tarn

a diversion due to rockfall

the bridge at Millau

a village in the Gorge du Tarn

the cathedral at Mende

the cathedral in Puy

Anika spots a cat

Early Saturday around noon we made our way south on the Autobahn. The car works well so far, though we didn't push it very much. A couple of hours later we reached Colmar in the Alsace region of France.

The next day we cut across the edge of the Jura through such interesting cities as Belfort, Besançon and Lons-le-Saunier. We ended up spending the night in Puy-en-Velay. We walked around the town, up to the 11th C. cathedral, thinking we might keep the kids up until 19.30 - when dinner's served in local restaurants. In the end we retired to our hotel with a few pastries filled with stew and a bottle of wine.

The next morning we made our way south towards the Mediterranean. Arriving in Mende, we got out to look at the cathedral and I discovered I had left my coat at our hotel. I'll blame it on the idiosyncracies of medieval architecture overlain with modern hotel room geography! Back to Le Puy! Aaah well, it was a beautiful, windy road - first foggy, then sunny - over a snowy mountain pass: no problem driving that a few times!

Later that day we managed to drive along the Gorge du Tarn, a beautiful valley dotted with small, almost inaccessible villages, numerous camp grounds (2-5 star), and thousands upon thousands of rental canoes and kayaks laid up for the winter. This valley led out to a larger town called Millau which is home to one of the more spectacular bridges in the world. Later that afternoon we arrived in Beziers, where we spent the night.

The next morning we headed for Spain via the 'salanque' and the Pyrenees. the road across the border was wonderfully curvy and narrow, heading repeatedly over ridge and back down into seaside town and back up again.

Eventually we reached the border and headed into Spain...

the new car!

at home with Inna & Jupp

dutch cheese!

on the way to the market with the whole family and some neighbourhood kids

"cake-time"

Our stay with relatives in Germany

We had a fantastic visit with our relatives Inna and Jupp, Liesel and Clemens, and Nick and Maya and Anni in Bocholt, Germany, located just over the border from Holland. If there is one word to describe our visit it would be indulgent. It could have been the four meals a day; four types of fresh bread from the bakery, soft boiled eggs, fresh fruit salad and yogurt, a broad selection of meats and cheeses, and fresh coffees of a variety of sorts. Lunch, cake-time, and dinner only added to the experience. The kids and I had a great time burning off the cake at the park while Chris looked for a car with Jupp. Two and a half days to find a car in Germany seemed adequate until the paperwork started to accumulate. It takes the pulp from several trees in Germany to satisfy the paperwork of one car sale. Happily, we ended up with a dark blue-grey VW Bora, the German form of a Jetta wagon. We cross our fingers that this VW is a reliable one! The previous owner was a mechanic, it could be a good or a very bad thing. We will find out....

In Bocholt!

Pictures

We've arrived!

We arrived in Amsterdam and it was love at first sight. Soren is delighted to see that the houses look like like castles and I am in love with the heavenly taste of the frankfurter and bun at the train station stand. We continue on the train to Aalten, where Inna and Jupp, our German relatives, will meet us.